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Showing posts with label bushveld. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bushveld. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Two posts in one - Announcing Blog Action Day

Sabie River Dawn

I have, I realise, gone completely bush mad. There’s a nice, but very rude expression for it in Afrikaans, but aware of bloggy sensibilities, I won’t use it here – it’s translatable enough for anyone to understand!

However, I’m that bushmad that I’m trying to get back to the bush. And what I’m wondering is, why has it taken me so long, and literally on the eve of our leaving SA for the Wet and Soggy Place, for me to discover the bush. Perhaps it’s because South Africans just take the bush for granted. We know it’s there, so you know, no big deal. But it is a big deal. It’s an awesome deal – that sheer magic of being out in wild nature is just irreplaceable. I would wish for every single one of you to experience it. And by experiencing it, I mean going out and actually walking in the bush - the real bush, where the lions and elephants and impala live.

As for getting back into the bush, I considered an African swansong – Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean/Zambian border (staying in Zambia) and Chobe Game Reserve in Botswana. But the thing that really grabbed me by the throat (and totally out-budgeted me) was the cost. Hideously expensive. I’m utterly staggered at the price of safari holidays, at how much private lodges and hotel chains charge for accommodation per night – never mind the airfares and airport taxes, park fees, activity charges etc. There are some people who are making a lot of money out of all this.

And here’s the rub. While hotel chains and private lodges are creaming it, the people who work for them and the people who live in the immediate environment remain horribly poor – often living below, on or just above the poverty line. It’s no small wonder that service in Africa is berated as being awful. How, after all, would you like to work for some fatcat serving “wealthy” tourists, when you don’t even earn enough to put food on the table. At the Victoria Falls curio markets, stallholders will barter goods – clothing, children’s clothing in particular, shoes and pens are all gratefully accepted as currency – because they are so unaffordable and so unavailable.

Township realities and tin shanties (near Johannesburg)

And this brings me to the next element of this post. Blog Action Day. It’s on the 15th of October this year and the topic is Poverty. I think I’m pretty well placed to write about poverty given it’s all around me. I’m hoping to rope D in to co-write with me, as an ex academic (socio-political theory) and well-published in his own right, he will bring extra depth to anything I might have to say.

Do go and check out the Blog Action site and sign up to participate. If you feel you’d have nothing to say, and I find that hard to believe! the site gives a host of ideas and suggestions for post topics on the day.



Wednesday, August 20, 2008

I'm Back (Kruger National Park 1)

Young elephant

I’m back, but I don’t know where to begin! My week with the wild things was awesome. There is something about being out in the bush that draws one back to basics and the fundamental essence of life. Somehow reality becomes more real – purer, in a sense. That’s not to say that nature is gentle or kind. It struck me, listening to some of the rangers’ stories, that life on this planet is about dominance – and every species is affected.
I heard stories of animal infanticide, rival killings, territorial disputes, clan wars, sexism, ageism… made me realise that this is a harsh planet. Yes, there’s gentleness and intelligence, love and protection but the flip side of the coin, the balance, is pretty dramatic. Makes me wonder about our personal evolution. Is our aim to get past our basic beast instincts or are we just beastly and that’s the sum of it? I suppose, ultimately, I’m inclined to still err towards the animal environment. There might be a lot of jostling for position but it’s about a fundamental need to survive. Eat or get eaten, shag or get beaten, is how I finally summed it up.

Rhinocerous - his own armoured tank

Oh, so you’re wondering where I went, after that little bit of philosophizing? Well, I went to South Africa’s premier game reserve, the Kruger National Park. We booked for just four nights, staying at Skukuza, one of the South African National Parks (SANParks) restcamps (not one of the luxury concessionary lodges!) – and I honestly wish we’d booked for longer. I could happily have spent a week or two there.

Queen of the beasts - a lioness on the prowl

For the details: Kruger Park covers nearly 19 000 sq kms and has a huge range of flora and fauna including the Big 5 – ie lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. They’re grouped together because they’re supposed the most dangerous animals and the most dangerous animals to hunt. It’s unfortunate really that so much focus is put on the Big 5 because there are a host of other stunning creatures in the Park – not to mention the bird life and the remarkable trees.

Impossible colours of the Lilac-breasted Roller

It’s hard to try and do the place justice in short blog post, so I will, over the next few days share various snippets with you - including further travels in the mountains and veld of Mpumalanga to the west of the game reserve. And if you want the full range of photos, (many still in the process of being uploaded...) go to my Flickr account. Yes, yes, I know, there are a lot of pics – but trust me, I’ve pruned dramatically from the over 3000 photos I started with!

Hippos at Lake Panic - near Skukuza

Sadly we didn’t see any leopards, cheetahs or wild dogs, but our “did see” list looks like this…

Animals
Lions (lionesses)
Elephant
White rhino
Buffalo
Hippo
Spotted Hyenas
Giraffe
Zebra
Blue wildebeest
Nyala
Kudu
Bushbuck
Waterbuck
Steenbuck
Impala
Warthogs
Baboons
Vervet monkeys
Scrub hares
Slender mongoose
Banded mongoose
Galago (bushbaby)
Tree squirrels
Fruit bats
Pipistrella bats

Reptiles
Crocodiles
Leguaan
Terrapins
unidentified snake

Birds
Glossy starlings
Ostrich
Coucal
Eagles - Fish Eagle, Bateleur Eagle, Tawny Eagle
White headed Vultures
Crowned Crane
Ground Hornbill
Yellowbilled Hornbill
Grey Hornbill
Carmine Bee-eater
Lilac-breasted Roller
Pied Kingfisher
Weaverbirds
Swallows
Maribou Stork
Herons including Grey Heron
Grey Loeries
Speckled Mousebird
Cape Turtle Dove
Hadedas
Finches
Sunbirds
Guinea Fowl
Francolin
Bulbuls
Flycatcher
Egyptian Geese
Hamerkop
Black Harrier
Ox Pecker
Saddlebilled Stork
Crested Barbet
Great White Egret
African Jacana
White Stork
Yellow Billed Stork
Greyheaded Parrot
Whitebacked Vulture
Darter
Several LBJs (Little Brown Jobs of unidentifiable types!)