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Showing posts with label animals. Show all posts
Showing posts with label animals. Show all posts

Monday, August 25, 2008

The Wickedness of Vervets (KNP 5)


Last week I told you about our “animal encounter” with a Vervet Monkey - or to give it its proper name, a Savanna Monkey. Well, here are some more Monkey stories, because while as dangerous as anything else with fur and fangs (think leopards, lions, hyenas, wild dogs), they really are very funny – provided you’re not on the receiving end of their brazen behaviour.


Vervets are smart – and cheeky. Many of them have worked out that human spaces are good places for rich pickings. The Skukuza restcamp where we stayed is overrun with the critters. They swing through the trees, chattering, ready to scavenge and “make a fast buck”. They’re not easily intimidated and will happily try their luck. They also hang out at all the picnic spots where one might be inclined to take a midday break.


We had our first encounter at the Nkulu tearoom on the riverine road between Skukuza and Lower Sabie, where the Vervets were having a field day. Hanging out in the trees, they kept a beady eye on the comings and goings of the lunch providers – that’s you and me, to them. One monkey would stake out a family and watch them, keeping a keen eye on lunch preparations. It would edge closer, seemingly innocent and just as the sandwich was ready, it would leap with astonishing speed, grab the sandwich and beat a hasty retreat up the nearest tree – usually to the chorus of “Voetsek! jou blerrie ding!” (which roughly translated means “sod off, you bloody thing!”) What I found deeply amusing was the outrage of the robbed humans. I mean, come on, the monkeys were there first, right, you’ve got nice goodies and it’s winner takes all. Frankly, I admire the chutzpah!


As I sat watching these antics I became aware of the fact that I too was being observed. And the watcher was sidling ever closer. What, I wondered, did I have that Mr Vervet could possibly want. All that was in front of me was an empty coffee cup and a small packet of sugar.
The Vervet gave me a look and looked away. He leapt a tree branch closer. He gazed innocently into the sky and had a scratch. He shot me another glance and hopped to the ground. Again, he gazed around him the picture of perfect virtue - and the next thing he was on the table. I watched him from the corner of my eye as he sat there, studiously ignoring me. Then in a swoop his arm shot out, the paw grabbed the sugar packet and in a flash (and I’d like to think with a whoop of triumph) he was gone and bounding up his tree, where, mightily pleased with himself, he tore open the sugar packet and scoffed the lot.


But not only do Vervets irritate humans, they have a fine sense of humour that involves irritating each other – especially if they’re young and full of fun. One small chap, taking a break from capers and antics, had snuggled up to mum for a drink. An older youngster, peeved that his playmate had disappeared, snuck up the tree and gave the baby’s tail a mighty tug. The baby finished his slurp, shot down the tree and the game was on again, involving chasing, biting and squealing. It’s clearly a very tough life being a Vervet (okay, being eaten by leopards, aside) - all fun, romps, scratching, eating and snoozing all day. We’d do well to heed the lesson!

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Animal Encounters (KNP 3)

There is one critical thing about being out in the bush (or on the ocean, or up a mountain): respect for the elements and the natural environment. When us humans swagger in, thinking we know it all, we are often in for a nasty surprise. Seas turn rough, mountains get swathed in storm clouds – and animals can get mightily pissed off.

While it’s true that generally speaking animals are more afraid of us than we are of them, it doesn’t do to annoy them.

While out in the bush we had two “animal encounters”.

Lesson one: They might be cute and funny but do not make eye contact with Vervet monkeys…


There we were, at the picnic spot having leg stretch, when a female Vervet with an attitude of note (as is the way of Vervets) hopped onto a picnic table for a steal. Move over hornbills, Vervets are doubly cheeky and even more brazen. D, rather struck by the critter’s attitude made the fatal mistake of making eye contact. The Vervet stiffened and bristled. In a flash you could see her eyes change as she sussed him out and tensed, ready to spring onto his head. As she was about to leap, and make no mistake Vervets are goal directed and they bite – hard - D swung up the camera in front of his face and pointed the lens at her. Barrel of a lens, barrel of gun – the principle is the same. Madame flung up her tail and beat a hasty retreat – much to D’s relief.



Lesson two: if a bull elephant is pissed off, get out of his way…


We were on our way to a waterhole, traveling slowly as one needs to, when up ahead I noticed a white VW Golf edging down the hill. And there was something grey and very cross ahead of it. Through the cloud of ochre dust we saw, coming towards us, the form of a bull elephant. And he was mad. His head was up, ears were spread and flapping, trunk thrashed from side to side. It didn’t take rocket science to sense this was a beast in a mighty stonk. The driver of the Golf, prize idiot that he was, just kept driving the animal forward. Three animals, it turned out – three very annoyed bull elephants.
Now a baby ellie might look very sweet, and generally elephants are pretty laidback (if you give them space), but a bull elephant in a strop is not something you mess with. Weighing in at between 5000 – 6000 kgs and standing between 3 - 3.3 m tall, they’ve been known to turn over or simply squash cars.
As eager as I was to grab that award-winning front-on shot of a charging elephant, I was more struck by the need to simply show some respect.


The elephants could see us ahead of them, and while their gripe wasn’t with us, we were in the way. So I turned the car around and with caution being the better part of valour, headed in the other direction. We stayed out of sight until I figured the elephants had had a chance to get off the road and take a deep breath. Then we went back.
Sure enough, there they were, in the bush, taking deep breaths. They were still miffed and the Golf driver was still making a pest of himself, but the elephants had been given a way out. We didn’t bother to stop but drove on, leaving the Golf to its fate.
When we went back a half an hour later, the ellies were standing in a copse passing the time of day. On taking a second look I can only say I was glad to have heeded the call for “respect”. They were the hugest elephants I have ever seen.
But the thing that struck me the most was the sense – imagined or otherwise – that they really appreciated the fact that someone had been good enough to honour their feelings.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

I'm Back (Kruger National Park 1)

Young elephant

I’m back, but I don’t know where to begin! My week with the wild things was awesome. There is something about being out in the bush that draws one back to basics and the fundamental essence of life. Somehow reality becomes more real – purer, in a sense. That’s not to say that nature is gentle or kind. It struck me, listening to some of the rangers’ stories, that life on this planet is about dominance – and every species is affected.
I heard stories of animal infanticide, rival killings, territorial disputes, clan wars, sexism, ageism… made me realise that this is a harsh planet. Yes, there’s gentleness and intelligence, love and protection but the flip side of the coin, the balance, is pretty dramatic. Makes me wonder about our personal evolution. Is our aim to get past our basic beast instincts or are we just beastly and that’s the sum of it? I suppose, ultimately, I’m inclined to still err towards the animal environment. There might be a lot of jostling for position but it’s about a fundamental need to survive. Eat or get eaten, shag or get beaten, is how I finally summed it up.

Rhinocerous - his own armoured tank

Oh, so you’re wondering where I went, after that little bit of philosophizing? Well, I went to South Africa’s premier game reserve, the Kruger National Park. We booked for just four nights, staying at Skukuza, one of the South African National Parks (SANParks) restcamps (not one of the luxury concessionary lodges!) – and I honestly wish we’d booked for longer. I could happily have spent a week or two there.

Queen of the beasts - a lioness on the prowl

For the details: Kruger Park covers nearly 19 000 sq kms and has a huge range of flora and fauna including the Big 5 – ie lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. They’re grouped together because they’re supposed the most dangerous animals and the most dangerous animals to hunt. It’s unfortunate really that so much focus is put on the Big 5 because there are a host of other stunning creatures in the Park – not to mention the bird life and the remarkable trees.

Impossible colours of the Lilac-breasted Roller

It’s hard to try and do the place justice in short blog post, so I will, over the next few days share various snippets with you - including further travels in the mountains and veld of Mpumalanga to the west of the game reserve. And if you want the full range of photos, (many still in the process of being uploaded...) go to my Flickr account. Yes, yes, I know, there are a lot of pics – but trust me, I’ve pruned dramatically from the over 3000 photos I started with!

Hippos at Lake Panic - near Skukuza

Sadly we didn’t see any leopards, cheetahs or wild dogs, but our “did see” list looks like this…

Animals
Lions (lionesses)
Elephant
White rhino
Buffalo
Hippo
Spotted Hyenas
Giraffe
Zebra
Blue wildebeest
Nyala
Kudu
Bushbuck
Waterbuck
Steenbuck
Impala
Warthogs
Baboons
Vervet monkeys
Scrub hares
Slender mongoose
Banded mongoose
Galago (bushbaby)
Tree squirrels
Fruit bats
Pipistrella bats

Reptiles
Crocodiles
Leguaan
Terrapins
unidentified snake

Birds
Glossy starlings
Ostrich
Coucal
Eagles - Fish Eagle, Bateleur Eagle, Tawny Eagle
White headed Vultures
Crowned Crane
Ground Hornbill
Yellowbilled Hornbill
Grey Hornbill
Carmine Bee-eater
Lilac-breasted Roller
Pied Kingfisher
Weaverbirds
Swallows
Maribou Stork
Herons including Grey Heron
Grey Loeries
Speckled Mousebird
Cape Turtle Dove
Hadedas
Finches
Sunbirds
Guinea Fowl
Francolin
Bulbuls
Flycatcher
Egyptian Geese
Hamerkop
Black Harrier
Ox Pecker
Saddlebilled Stork
Crested Barbet
Great White Egret
African Jacana
White Stork
Yellow Billed Stork
Greyheaded Parrot
Whitebacked Vulture
Darter
Several LBJs (Little Brown Jobs of unidentifiable types!)