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Showing posts with label Kruger National Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kruger National Park. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Two posts in one - Announcing Blog Action Day

Sabie River Dawn

I have, I realise, gone completely bush mad. There’s a nice, but very rude expression for it in Afrikaans, but aware of bloggy sensibilities, I won’t use it here – it’s translatable enough for anyone to understand!

However, I’m that bushmad that I’m trying to get back to the bush. And what I’m wondering is, why has it taken me so long, and literally on the eve of our leaving SA for the Wet and Soggy Place, for me to discover the bush. Perhaps it’s because South Africans just take the bush for granted. We know it’s there, so you know, no big deal. But it is a big deal. It’s an awesome deal – that sheer magic of being out in wild nature is just irreplaceable. I would wish for every single one of you to experience it. And by experiencing it, I mean going out and actually walking in the bush - the real bush, where the lions and elephants and impala live.

As for getting back into the bush, I considered an African swansong – Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean/Zambian border (staying in Zambia) and Chobe Game Reserve in Botswana. But the thing that really grabbed me by the throat (and totally out-budgeted me) was the cost. Hideously expensive. I’m utterly staggered at the price of safari holidays, at how much private lodges and hotel chains charge for accommodation per night – never mind the airfares and airport taxes, park fees, activity charges etc. There are some people who are making a lot of money out of all this.

And here’s the rub. While hotel chains and private lodges are creaming it, the people who work for them and the people who live in the immediate environment remain horribly poor – often living below, on or just above the poverty line. It’s no small wonder that service in Africa is berated as being awful. How, after all, would you like to work for some fatcat serving “wealthy” tourists, when you don’t even earn enough to put food on the table. At the Victoria Falls curio markets, stallholders will barter goods – clothing, children’s clothing in particular, shoes and pens are all gratefully accepted as currency – because they are so unaffordable and so unavailable.

Township realities and tin shanties (near Johannesburg)

And this brings me to the next element of this post. Blog Action Day. It’s on the 15th of October this year and the topic is Poverty. I think I’m pretty well placed to write about poverty given it’s all around me. I’m hoping to rope D in to co-write with me, as an ex academic (socio-political theory) and well-published in his own right, he will bring extra depth to anything I might have to say.

Do go and check out the Blog Action site and sign up to participate. If you feel you’d have nothing to say, and I find that hard to believe! the site gives a host of ideas and suggestions for post topics on the day.



Sunday, September 14, 2008

Fast Food (KNP 15)

Female impala, such a pretty girl



Pack up your gear, check the wardrobes. Got everything? Good, because today’s our last day in the Kruger National Park. We might yet pay a visit to the Panorama Route (no animals but staggering vistas), but you’ll have to wait a while for that bit of virtual traveling because there are a whole lot of other posts that need to happen – some awards, notification about Blog Action Day, news about an awesome (and highly addictive) widget, and some other abstract witterings and warblings. You know, “regular” service… But for now, here’s the last bit of animal mania.



A beautiful boy



The last animal we saw on leaving the Park was an impala, in fact, the animals most predominant in the Park are impala. There are estimated to be about 86 000 - way more than any other animal. When the guide on our sunset drive asked us what we expected to see, D very smartly announced, “Impala”. Methinks perhaps what the guide had meant to say was, “What would you hope to see”!



All lined up at the waterhole... sitting ducks (erm, I mean, impala)...



Impala, beautiful, graceful antelope, are known as the Park’s fast food – food on the hoof, you might say. They are a one-of-a-kind antelope and have no close relatives. They are a highly successful breed and dominant in their chosen habitat. But because there are so many of them, they are easy pickings for any of the big predators – though they’re not to everyone’s taste – lions, for example, are not that keen on them. You might think the impala would be putting themselves at risk - being so numerous, but a little like zebras, they work on the bafflement factor.



Cute girl



Herds consist of a harem of females and single dominant ram. During breeding season the ram has a busy few days and all his girls are impregnated at approximately the same time. As soon as the first calf is born, there follows an intense period of calving that may last about two weeks. A herd can easily grow from 10 animals to 50 animals during this time. Although it is a vulnerable time for the herd, the sheer number of dinner options baffles the predators. “Hmm, this one, or that one, no, hang on, how about that one there, no, wait, there’s one over there …” and by the time the predator has made up its mind, the herd have scarpered. Okay, so it’s not quite that simplistic, but you get the idea.



Don't mess with me!



But being an impala provides for a pretty straightforward sort of life. Eat (and they both graze and browse) and then get eaten. You can kind of imagine the following conversation:

Mummy Impala – “Now there’s just one thing you need to know about life, dear.”

Baby Impala – “What’s that, Mummy?”

Mummy Impala – “One day you will be eaten.”



Me and a few of my girls - and my oxpecker

(the oxpecker picks ticks off most animals in the park - a nicely symbiotic relationship)



Take me seriously!



As I said when I started this series, one of the things that struck me most about the Park’s animal kingdom was that it was a case of eat or get eaten, shag or get beaten. Simple philosophy though not high on compassion!



Hope you’ve enjoyed the journey with me!



Not a zebra crossing

Saturday, September 13, 2008

On the Hoof (KNP14)

I had, rather mistakenly, assumed I'd see plenty of "on the hoof" in the Kruger National Park - and frankly, was quite surprised at how few antelope species we did see. I had hoped to see some eland - Africa's biggest bovid - but Mr and Mrs Eland had clearly eloped and were nowhere to be found. I'd also assumed we'd see springbok - our national animal - but not a chance. I kind of hoped to see Sable or Roan antelope (very beautiful creatures) but wasn't terribly surprised that we didn't. But here are some shots of a few "on the hoof" beasts that we did see - and okay, so one is not antelope at all - but he's still hoofed and a ruminant.


Not an antelope.
One of South African's Big Five - the buffalo. Short tempered and prone to crankiness. If he eyeballs you, run.

Buffalo can weight up to 870 kgs and stand up to 165 cm tall. They're non territorial and extremely sociable - amongst themselves, that is! They live in large mixed herds but bulls past their prime leave the breeding herds and form cantankerous batchelor herds. Talk about grumpy old men...


A gnu by any other name, more commonly known as the common or Blue Wildebeest

Napping Gnus... or woozy wildebeest


The wildebeest is a large bearded antelope who many reckon looks like it was put together by a committee... The poor old wildebeest is the preferred prey of lions though it's chief predator is the spotted hyena which kills more wildebeest - fit and unfit, adults and calves - than any other predator.

Waterbuck sheltering from the midday heat

Waterbuck are from the Reedbuck tribe. It's a large, shaggy antelope with a very distinctive round circle on its backside - sort of like a target... Waterbuck, as their name suggests, stay very close to water and are active both day and night.

And now here is the real rarity, which I'd never heard of and so didn't expect to see at all...

Nyala

The Nyala - mostly nocturnal and seldom sighted in the Kruger National Park, it lurks in thickets and densely wooded lowlands and only emerges at night to feed on grassland. I'm guessing we only spotted the rear end of this one because it was winter - in summer, during the hottest hours, they tend to stand motionless and almost invisible in the deep shade of trees.

Mrs Bushbuck...

...and her husband, Mr Bushbuck.


Bushbuck and Nyala are from the same tribe - Tragelaphini - along with kudu. The Bushbuck Tribe are "a close-knit group of antelope with spiral horns. They differ from all other African antelope in having a non-territorial social/mating system. Most depend on cover to avoid predators." (Source: The Safari Companion - Richard D Estes 1993/1999)

Like the Nyala, the Bushbuck is mainly active at night - so again, not usual to spot in the daytime - though these two were hanging around a tea room and were completely unphased by human activity - I'm guessing they probably were used to handouts.

And then we have this rather elegant lot... the Kudu - the second tallest antelope - they can stand up to 150 cm tall and they have the most spectacular horns . They also have the most amazing leap. One, which we disturbed whilst driving, bounded across the road in a single jump, doing the most remarkable kick with it's back legs. Oh if only I'd had the camera at the ready!

See me, see you


Pretty Poser


Grazing and browsing


Grazing applies to nibbling the grass, browsing applies to nibbling leaves on tree. Just so you know.

Female Kudu



The main man, with an imposing set of very beautiful horns.


I suppose I shouldn't say this, but kudu make terrific eating... In South Africa, kudu biltong (dried meat, like American jerky) and dried sausage, are hugely popular. Ask me, I know. Yes, yes, I ate one or some of them... Having "met" them, you have no idea how bad I know feel!

The next post will be the last in the Kruger Park - and I'll tell you about the Kruger's "fast food" - the other antelope not present in this post...

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Best of Birds (KNP 13)

Yellow-billed Hornbill - you've met him before...

"Spring is sprung and da grass is riz, I wonder where da boidies is?
Da boid is on da wing!
But dat's absoid! Da wing is on da boid!"

Yes, well, that's quite enough words for today - too many pictures of birds - so let's just be getting on, shall we?

Whiteheaded vultures - Can you see dinner, Harry?

Tawny Eagle at the waterhole - he sure scared off the impala...

Pied Kingfishers at Lake Panic - oh and an Egyptian Goose too

Mousebird at dawn

Lilac-breasted Roller - I'm so pretty, oh so pretty...

Ground Hornbill - Who? Me? Uh...duh...

Grey Loerie - this time not hopping up a tree (as it usually does).

Grey Hornbill - neat camouflage

Grey Heron - coming in to land

Grey Heron - so stately

One Glossy Starling...

... and another Glossy Starling. Total iridescence.

Flycatcher - where are those flies...

Crested Barbet - bright bird indeed

Bokmakierrie - sweet sort of chap

Bee-eater - bzzzzzzz....

African Jacana - oh look at me!

Vulture - so whaddayawanna do today, I dunno, whaddayawanna do...?
(Remember the Jungle Book vultures...?)


Monday, September 8, 2008

Landscapes 2 - Trees (KNP 12)

Alone on a hilltop

Trees always speak for themselves. If you don't believe me go and hug one and listen.
By the way, it was winter here which is why leaves may seem in short supply!

Bushveld starkness

White blossoms

Nest in me
White bark

All shapes and sorts and sizes

Into the distance

Dawn tree on the Sabie River

Blues and greens and gold and grey

Next it will be birds...